
CANOEING NORTHERN QUEBEC AND LABRADOR
Leaf River
In 1998 we did a second crossing of the Ungava Penninsula following a route described to us by George Luste.
Starting at Kuujjuarapik, we paddled about 100 miles up Hudson Bay and portaged inland, going from pond to pond and eventually reaching Lake Minto, head of the Leaf River.
The portage route into Lake Minto was my favorite part. It was very wild with a semi-barren landscape and varied terrain. It had a timeless feel and we saw very few signs of recent human activity. In several places we found ourselves camped next to some ancient looking tent rings.
Lake Minto was spectacular, its many islands and peninsulas breaking up its vast expanse. We were windbound there a few times. We once portaged across a peninsula to get to a place with some wind protection for paddling. We managed to paddle for a while but then got stuck again for three days.
Near the end of the lake, we hit the caribou migration and were surrounded by thousands of animals. We then paddled with the herd for several days.
We were able to run most of the rapids on the river and there were very few portages. The bottom of the river is tidal and there are some huge rapids that appear at low tide and disappear when the tide comes back in.
When we were nearing Tasiujaq, we made the mistake of crossing Red Bay instead of following its arc close to shore. The mirror smooth water was soon roiled by a fierce windstorm and we had to battle the wind, waves and tide to reach shore.
During the final 2 miles we paddled harder than I thought we could. We set up two of our tents in the shelter of some rocks and were windbound until the next day. We couldn't set up the third tent because the wind was too strong.
The people of Tasiujaq were very welcoming and we enjoyed spending a few days in the village until our flight out.
All photos by Al Stirt except where indicated. DB - Dave Brown Photo, WS - Wendy Scott photo

Our route.

From Kuujjuarapik to Tasiujaq.

On Manitounuk Sound. Cuestas in Background.

Flowers on the Bay.

Hiking on the way up the coast.

Windbound!

Using the canoe as a windbreak, having tea.

Passing the falls at the bottom of the Nastapoka.

Wildflowers.

Camping at White Whale Point, close to the start of our portage.

"George said to follow up the third stream."

Heading east away from Hudson Bay.

Having a lunch and nap break on the portage.

Our first pond.

Heading towards Lake Minto. DB photo

Figuring out the route.

First sight of Lake Minto. WS photo

Avoiding wind on Minto by portaging across a peninsula.

Picked cloudberries while windbound.

Caribou herd crossing the lake.

We were surrounded by the herd.

I sat down and waited.

They got pretty close.

Dave and Ann on a Leaf rapid.

Lake trout for lunch.

Cottongrass near the bottom of the river.

After a hairy crossing of Red Bay, glad to be alive.

An hour later with the tide going out.

Portaging through Tasiujaq.

Meeting the locals.

Visitors to our tent.
A trip on the Leaf River in 1998.